Medieval towns, magical mountains that whisper of fortune-telling witches, and the music and performance of opera. The birthplace of Rafael, of the Renaissance, the painter and architect.
A cuisine influenced by a beautiful coastline and the farming traditions of the inland parts of the region.
We are in Le Marche, a region in central Italy, to the east of Toscana and Umbria, to the north of Abruzzo, and to the south of Emilia Romagna. And to the west of the Adriatic sea.
And importantly, from this professional’s perspective…a region with high quality, world class wines that are just being discovered, and affordable, at that. If you enjoy the hunt for a good value wine that is versatile with food, then put Marche on your radar.
On the coastline, there are beautiful beaches that are also well kept, and sustainable, as recognized by its 28 “Blue Flag Beaches”. Marinas and beaches, to gain this recognition from the Foundation of Environmental Education, must pass stringent standards for safety, environmental management, and quality.
Further inland, an economy that once was driven by agriculture is moving into manufacturing, and the region is known for its fine shoemaking tradition.
Le Marche has invested in its tourism industry over the years, and offers Unesco World Heritage sites such as the Renaissance era town of Urbino, and hiking in Monte Sibillini (where the legend of a future-telling prophetess still lives).
The dichotomy of the sea and the land also lends itself to the region’s cuisine. The “not-so-secret” Clandestino, an Italian-style sushi restaurant, sits on the Adriatic Sea under the high coastal cliffs near turquoise and cobalt water. Small sea snails indigenous to this part of the sea are often braised in tomato sauce for a pasta topping.
Further inland, the traditions of the land influence the food. A land of farmers and shepherds, inland food includes cacciatore of chicken or rabbit, braised in white wine over garlic and olive oil and a Led Zeppelin-like quantity of fresh herbs. Starters include items like olive all’ascolana (see below for recipe), fried sage leaves, and fried custard.
There are a few notable wines, again high quality and affordable price points.
The most well known is the white Verdicchio grape, which in its younger wines, shows hues of green that is fitting to its literal translation of “little green one”. There are two important denominacions. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC, produced around the medieval town of Jesi, is vinified in different ways including as a fresh young wine, a medium bodied wine with more complexity, and in some cases aged in some portion of oak. Verdicchio di Matelica DOC is further inland and generally produces slightly more powerful wines. These white wines are crisp and dry with a lot of acidity, complementing both the land and sea versions of the regional cuisine.
The red wines have several important denominacions, less well known than the Verdicchios. Rosso Piceno DOC and Rosso Conero DOC are red blends of Sangiovese and Montepulciano, two grapes also found in the nearby regions in Italy, with the Coneros tending to be more dominant with Montepulciano.
But a fascinating varietal is Lacrima, with its own denominacion of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC, an area near Jesi. Lacrima literally means “tear”, and according to winemakers, refers to the liquid that weeps from the grape if it is still on the vine after it is meant to be harvested. This is not easy to find but very special to Marchigiani, the people of the Marche. This wine bursts with fresh cut violets, and is medium bodied and easy to drink. The riserva versions can see oak aging and higher alcohol levels, and offer a fascinating complexity at their price point. These are often consumed at lunch.
Le Marche region is primed to become more well known. A place of culture and fine culinary traditions, its wines are still relatively under the radar but this also drives its attractive value for the quality.
If you’ve read this far…then stay tuned…because exciting news is on the way related to this region and its wines.
Key words to look for on the wine bottle label:
White wines:
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Red wines:
Rosso Piceno DOC
Rosso Conero DOC
Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC
Recipes:
Olive All’Ascolana (credit to The Spruce Eats)
Vincisgrassi (credit to BBC Good Food)