Eagerly anticipating our appointment, we guided our small red rental car through the gate into a parking lot. We were slightly early, as I planned for some unknown contingency on the route from Burgos to Pesquera de Duero, in northern Spain. I did not want to risk missing this appointment.
We were visiting the renowned Bodegas Pesquera, a storied winery in the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. And we were in for a surprise.
I turned the key in the ignition to “off”, and wondered whether we should make our presence known or simply wait in the car for our appointed time. That question would soon be answered for me.
In the rearview mirror, I noticed a man pacing in the lot, behind our car. It seemed like he was waiting for us, even though we were early. OK, I thought, I guess we’re not waiting.
We approached the man and he began speaking to us, in Spanish. Which, unfortunately, surpassed my limits once it went beyond cordial expressions. Then, I heard him say the words that would make the next 5 minutes pass in slow motion.
“…Alejandro Fernandez.”
I had learned about Señor Fernandez, and Ribera del Duero, during my initial wine education with Bernie Vogel. And his personality loomed large over the wine world, as I’ve been told more than a few times by different people about his penchant to take visitors for a ride through his vineyards while singing.
And here he was in front of me.
Suppressing my urge to genuflect, perhaps a relic of 13 years of Catholic school education, I replied, “Ah, Señor Fernandez! Encantada!”
We shook hands (wow, remember doing that?), and I took out my digital camera and asked, “Photos OK?” He replied, without hesitation, “Sí”. I wasn’t going to miss this moment.
Somewhere in the back of my mind, I wondered…how did he know we were coming? I filed that thought away.
I could tell he was ready to get on with his day, maybe a combination of discomfort with a language barrier and having more pressing things to deal with besides entertaining wine tourists, and he said something in Spanish. While I didn’t understand the words, I knew he was telling us that he was going to find the person with whom we made the appointment, so all of us could get on with our day.
Señor Fernandez is a legend in the wine world, especially in Spain. He purchased an old stone winery in 1972, with a grape press that dated back to the 16th century. In a few years he was making high quality Tempranillo wines, from grapes grown during hot sunny days, but at a high elevation that caused temperatures to drop at night (there is an axiom that great wines are produced when the vines are stressed). He championed winemaking in the Ribera del Duero, a stretch of land along the Duero river, and in 1982, thanks to his work and the work of a few others, Spain officially recognized Ribera del Duero with a Denominación de Origen, creating a framework for authentic wines from this region.
During our visit, we would see the wine press, along with the modern winery. Then, a tasting of several wines from Pesquera, and several more from Señor Fernandez’s other estates, in Ribera del Duero and elsewhere.
I recalled being humbled that the winery felt we were important enough to have one of their representatives show us through the winery, and taste wines with us (free of charge). I would eventually learn, through more of these visits to other wineries in Spain, and other parts of Europe, that this was a common practice with family winemakers.
These experiences seeded my desire to become an importer. I felt the connection with the families, and recognized their life’s work was a labor of love. They took pride in this labor, and in their history, which was also part of their family history. I raised glasses and celebrated good company, with wine at the center of it all, transcending any differences in language and culture.
An article I read recently provided more context that I had not thought about much. Transactionally, these experiences do not “make money” for the winery. Yet they open their doors, in hopes that consumers will first and foremost have good experiences, and maybe they generate word-of-mouth exposure. Real grass roots marketing.
When travel is again a possibility, I cannot recommend enough seeking winery experiences that go beyond tasting rooms with a for-fee flight of wines. Connect with the winery, make an appointment, and express interest in seeing the operation. This works best with a smaller, family winery. The experience could be surprising and rewarding.
This was exactly how I was able to get an appointment to see Bodegas Pesquera. I recall the excitement when the appointment was booked, and I let Bernie know, as he introduced me to this winery when we tasted an aged Tinto Pesquera Gran Reserva on a cool autumn evening.
And I recall the excitement when I texted the picture of me with Señor Fernandez, to Bernie.
Upon returning to the US, Bernie, who was in the wine industry with a major wholesaler at the time, informed me that when he learned of my appointment time, he had made a request to the winery though their US importer, to potentially arrange the greeting if Señor Fernandez was present and not otherwise disposed.
Yet another reason for my gratitude to Bernie, and another experience that paved the way for my entry into the wine business.
