If you’ve been following me on social media recently, you may be saying one of 3 things.
- Not this again. (I hope not)
- Yes! You’re finally going to tell us who it is and what you are doing.
- But really, you are right?
And to those last two, I answer yes! And to the first…well, just after I decided to become an importer, I learned of the Nebbiolo-based wines of the Valtellina, some of which were made in the style of Amarone, and I simply had to experience it, and share the experience. I was excited to have the opportunity to bring these interesting wines to the market.
So yes, I like to talk a lot about wine, and particularly the Valtellina.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program.
Nebbiolo, commonly found in the Barolo, Barbaresco, and Langhe areas of the Piemonte region, is also found further north in the Lombardia region, in a river valley known as Valtellina.
We first wrote about the Valtellina here, and will provide more color, and introduce the producer with whom we are working.
Valtellina is a region of mountainside vineyards, just south of the Swiss border and the Alps; and yes, you can see them from the vineyards.
This special location adds to the grape and fruit characters of the wine in a unique way. There is a combination of sun exposure, from southward-facing vines planted on steep slopes, and from cool Alpine and lake breezes that make for very special wines, with complex fresh, ripe, and baked fruit characters.
If you’re familiar with Nebbiolo from the other regions, then you expect a tannic grip when you drink it; this is a trademark of Nebbiolo.
Nebbiolo from Piemonte will also have a lot of balance with fruity, floral and earthy flavors.
Nebbiolo from Valtellina has the trademark Nebbiolo tannic grip, but it also takes time to soften and open up (not too unlike its Piemontese cousins). Just after opening it can be a bit sharp, but when you allow it to open even for 15 minutes, either in a glass or decanter, the complexity of the wine is a rewarding experience.
You’ll know a Valtellina wine from the location called out on the label, similar to other wines from Europe (and similar to Barolo, which is a location versus a grape).
Let’s say you have two wines in front of you, both from the producer Caven in the Valtellina Valley.
- Al Carmine® Valtellina Superiore Docg Inferno Riserva, a denominazione of Italy (protected location wine). On this label, you will not see the name of the Nebbiolo grape or Chiavennasca, as it’s called in Valtellina. But what you will see are the words “Valtellina Superiore Docg” (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). The label may also include the word “Riserva”, meaning it spent more time aging, in this case in small new oak barrels. “Inferno” is the name of the vineyard, literally “hell” in Italian and denoting the difficult work of tending the vineyards in longer sunny days.
- Messere® Sforzato di Valtellina Docg. Another style from Valtellina, analogous to Amarone from the Veneto region, made by drying grapes for several months, and as many as three months, once harvested. The result – a big powerful red Nebbiolo. Its label will include “Sforzato di Valtellina” Docg, again with no reference to Nebbiolo or Chiavennasca.
Knowing what to look for on the label is so important to finding these wonderful wines. In my area, if a store carries Valtellina wines you will see them on designated shelves labelled by regions, these wines are usually placed near the Piemonte wines which also include Barolo and Barbaresco.
Happy Hunting!
And if you get a chance to try one of these wines, reach out and let me know your thoughts!
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Now, to our announcement.
We are pleased to be working with the Nera family, who have built a very important winemaking presence in the Valtellina. They make a complete series of wines from the region under two winemaking brands:
Casa Vinicola Pietro Nera, the winery started by the founder, Guido Nera, in 1940.
Azienda Agricola Caven, launched in 1982 by Stefano and Simone Nera, selecting the best grapes and making limited production wines aged in new oak.
The Nera family believes in sustainable agriculture, with its techniques consistent with the guidelines laid out by the Lombardia region for rural development.
Tending the vineyards is an intense activity, with the steepness of the slopes not allowing for mechanical means.
We will be introducing three wines from Pietro Nera when our licensing process is complete, here in Maryland. We look forward to our partnership with the Nera family!