In 1940, the roots of an important and eventually highly regarded winery were planted, by Guido Nera. Far in the north of Italy, near the Swiss border and the Alps, vineyards were planted on steep slopes, with southern sun exposure to provide enough warmth to adequately ripen the notoriously finicky Nebbiolo grapes…known by their local name as “Chiavennasca”.
Back in October, we announced our partnership with Pietro Nera, a historic and important producer from the Valtellina region of Italy.
Pietro Nera was the second generation winemaker, and expanded its reach into the important growing areas within the Valtellina. He and his family were a driving force behind enhancing the quality and stature of Valtellina wines.
Innovation may be genetically driven in the Nera family, because the third generation, sons Simone and Stefano, continue to advance their wines and winemaking. In 1982, they started a second winery, Caven, to make wines entirely from the best estate grapes, in a more modern style with aging in smaller new oak barrels. Stefano, the winemaker and oenologist for Pietro Nera and Caven, replants the vineyards from selected clones that have shown more resistance to fungus and pests, as the family eschews pesticides.
Pietro Nera is one of the very few winemakers in Valtellina with vines in each of the important, recognized sub zones of Valtellina. In order for a wine to receive the Valtellina Superiore Docg classification, it must be made from minimum 90% Nebbiolo and age for 2 years (with at least one in barrels). Also, there are vineyard sub zones that provide superior aspect, sun exposure, and minerality, creating unique terroir effects within the Valtellina. These sub zones include Sassella, Inferno, Grumello, Valgella, and Maroggia; wines made from grapes within these sub zones will reflect it on the label.
The most well known wine from the Valtellina is the Sforzato di Valtellina Docg. Sforzato, a technique and not a location, involves a partial drying of a selection of the best grapes from the vineyards, providing a concentrated, intense wine. The Nera family has received numerous awards and recognition for its Sforzato wines, most recently a score of 93 from Wine Enthusiast for its 2013 vintage.
When I tasted through the range of wines from Pietro Nera and Caven, the terroir effects of the various vineyards were evident, along with the vinification processes. The Sassella wines showed softer tannin, bright acidity, and firm minerality; contrasted with the Inferno wines, whose vineyards receive more sun exposure, there was more of a ripe to baked fruit character, and more body and intensity. The Caven “Giupa” wine, with later harvested grapes, exhibited some dried fruit character; the Sforzato had more intense dried fruit flavor and was very elegant and well balanced at 15% ABV.
After 3 generations and 80 years, the Nera family has established itself as a prestigious winemaker in the region. The tradition is proudly continued by Simone and Stefano, having been passed down from their father and grandfather. We are pleased to represent them here!