I recall the moment I learned about Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG. I had just decided to launch Wide Roots, and was on a plane to Houston on business with my prior employer. The book was titled Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy, written by Joe Bastianich. A survey of the wines of all 20 regions of Italy, it had much to teach me.
I was familiar with the Nebbiolo wines of Piemonte, especially those made in Barolo and Barbaresco, some of the greatest crus in Italy. But I did not know that Nebbiolo was also grown and made into wine farther north, in Lombardia…in a river valley called Valtellina.
In the Italian Alps near Switzerland, Valtellina is the northernmost location where Nebbiolo, locally called “Chiavennasca”, is grown. It is also thought to be the actual birthplace of Nebbiolo. Because of the cool Alpine climate, grape growers would have difficulty adequately ripening Nebbiolo, already a late ripening grape variety. So traditionally, they resorted to a winemaking technique used all over Italy and originally brought by the Greeks…the “Appassimento” style, where grapes are partially dried prior to making wine. This is most famous in the Amarone wines of the Veneto region, but used extensively all over Italy particularly in the production of some of its great sweet wines.
Appassimento allowed for more powerful Nebbiolo wines to be made in the cooler climate of Valtellina. In current times, grape growers have less difficulty ripening Nebbiolo, but the technique is still a nod to tradition, and makes very special powerful and elegant red wines.
As I read about Appassimento style Nebbiolo wines, I was immediately inspired to plan a trip to Italy and begin the process of putting a wine portfolio together. But I also wondered why I was previously unaware of this style. I was not a neophyte to wine, and spent considerable time in the company of experienced wine drinkers; yet somehow the concept of the Sforzato never had come up in conversation.
Sforzato di Valtellina achieved DOCG status, the highest level of the Italian denominazione that protects authenticity of location and winemaking, in 2003, well before Amarone della Valpolicella became a DOCG in 2010. Yet it is less well known, most likely due to sheer scale of production. While only about 300,000 total bottles of Sforzato are produced each year, there are over 17 million bottles per year of Amarone produced.
In producing its Sforzato, Pietro Nera selects the best grapes from its vineyards, and harvests early to retain acidity. The grapes are then dried for 2-3 months in a warehouse, with air circulating through windows. The partially dried grapes are then made into wine, and aged in large used oak barrels.
Stefano Nera, the 3rd generation winemaker in the family (and son of Pietro) and a master of clone selection (a critical skill in successfully making Nebbiolo wine), periodically tastes the wine out of the barrel. His many years of experience tells him exactly when the wine is ready to release, and he refuses to release it even a moment too soon, protecting the quality reputation of the Nera family.
The Pietro Nera Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG masterfully balances power and elegance. The fruit shows dried characters, as expected from the Appassimento process, with a focus on red fruit like cherries and cranberries. Dried rose aromas also reflect a marker of the Nebbiolo grape, and earthy spices round out the flavor characters. A dry, full bodied wine at 15% alcohol, this is a special wine as the season grows colder.
The wine is very age worthy, with the firm tannin and high acidity so characteristic of Nebbiolo combined with a fuller body. It is an excellent accompaniment to game, roasted meat, and mature and aged cheeseHave you had a Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG
A large oak barrel converted into a tasting area; the steep vineyards of Valtellina; Chrisa Giorgi interviews Stefano Nera with Francesco di Bernardo (export manager) watching.